Like many childrenof the West Coast, I am a sucker for teriyaki salmon—a Japanese classic that slid easily into the menu of funny little bento shacks owned by former surfers named Dan or Dave.

And so maybe I was a prime target for a teriyaki salmon and “forbidden rice” meal from Factor,HelloFresh’s ready-to-heat meal delivery service. Factor preps and cooks its meals freshly in a commissary kitchen and then, through the magic ofmodified atmosphere packaging, Factor ships this meal in the mail without the indignity of freezing. All I have to do after that is heat it up.

Photograph: Matthew Korfhage

What surprised me is how good the salmon tasted, even after being reheated. After air-frying my meal with the sauce drizzled on top, the salmon remained flaky and mild, without rubber or mush. The rice was al dente, lightly crisped. I’ve tested nearly everymeal delivery servicein existence, and one of the most interesting developments in food tech over the past decade has been the rise of the fully prepared, ready-to-heat meal that’s actually palatable.